Incorporating contemporary conflict and historical tradition in Mozambique, this travel memoir chronicles the experiences of a team of South African journalists who journeyed up the tropical coast of Southeast Africa and across the interior land of Mozambique in the early 1990s. The travelers observe architecture and devil worship, nature and war, snorkeling and cooking, and encounter aid workers, backpackers, bandits, prostitutes, and ordinary Mozambique citizens along the way. With humor and sharp observation, this account captures a pivotal moment in Mozambique's history after the bitter independence struggle and devastating civil war when the country, its people, and the narrator must redefine individual and national identities.